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Eine kulinarische Rundreise durch den Norden Portugals › Rueckert Fotografie
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Eine kulinarische Rundreise durch den Norden Portugals


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Wie so häufig im Oktober wollten wir den Sommer verlängern und es zog uns mal wieder nach Portugal – diesmal zusammen mit unseren Freunden Hagen und Jördis. Die Wetteraussichten ließen aber bereits darauf schließen, dass es diesmal vielleicht nicht ganz so sommerlich werden würde mit die letzten Male und es doch einiges an Niederschlag geben könnte. Aber das Wetter kann man ja (leider) oder vielleicht auch zum Glück nicht ändern – man kann nur das Beste daraus machen. Und hier werden wir mal niederschreiben, ob und wie und das gelungen ist.

Freitag, 14.10.2022 – Späte Anreise nach Porto

Der Flug nach Porto ging ja schon immer spät – diesmal war er aber noch etwas später und es ging erst um 21.40 Uhr los. Dazu hatten wir dann noch eine leichte Verspätung und so kamen wir erst um kurz nach Mitternacht in Porto an. Bis wir ein Taxi hatten und bei unserer Wohnung in der Stadt waren, war es bereits kurz nach 1 Uhr.

Der Türcode des „Self-Check-Ins“ funktionierte – leider hatte aber jemand die Tür von innen abgeschlossen. Somit half der Türcode nicht wirklich. Wir riefen bei der Vermieterin an und diese ging zum Glück auch noch ans Telefon. Eine Viertelstunde später ging die Tür dann von innen auf – anscheinend hatte sie einen der anderen Mieter geweckt, der von innen aufschloss. Lustigerweise waren Marie und ich vor einigen Jahren schon mal in dem Haus gewesen, jedoch in einer anderen Wohnung. Das war mir bei der Buchung nicht bewusst gewesen.

Die Wohnung war sehr schön, auch wenn sie am recht lauten Praca Republica lag. Die Schlafzimmer gingen aber nach hinten raus und waren dadurch recht ruhig. Im Bett waren wir dann gegen 2 Uhr – in Deutschland war es jetzt bereits 3 Uhr….

Samstag, 15.10.2022 – Ein Bummel durch Porto

Zu Fuß ging es mal wieder durch die Innenstadt von Porto. Hagen und ich kauften in zwei Läden jeweils 3 T-Shirts und dann ging es erst mal auf die Gaia-Seite rüber. Dort holten wir uns bei einem Food-Market ein paar Leckereien zum Essen und ich machte mich dann auf den Weg zum Flughafen, um unseren Mietwagen zu übernehmen.

Es klappte alles gut und um 15.30 Uhr hatte ich einen VW T-Cross – das war dann also unser „Lucky-Dip-Car“…..Das fuhr ich dann zurück zur Wohnung und parkte es fast direkt vor der Tür. Dort trudelten dann auch Marie, Jördis und Hagen ein und brachten auch noch gleich zwei Natas mit. Nach einer kurzen Ruhepause machten wir uns dann auf den Weg in einen Laden, zum Aperitif und ins Restaurant. In dem Laden waren Hagen und ich nur zwei Minuten und dann hatten wir Bier und Wein. Als Marie und Jördis zu uns kamen wechselten wir zu Port-Tonic für uns bzw. Sangria für Marie und Jördis.

Um 19.30 hatten wir den Tisch im Bilha Nova reserviert, wo ich im Mai auch mit den Jungs gegessen hatte. Der Laden war bis auf den letzten Platz ausgebucht – ohne Reservierung hätten wir da wohl keine Chance gehabt. Als Vorspeise hatten wir Bacalahau Pimentos de Padron und Marie eine Suppe. Danach hatte Marie das Schweinefilet mit Risotto, Hagen die Rippchen und Jördis und ich teilten und rosa gebratenes Kalbfleisch auf Kartoffeln und Spinat. Es war alles sehr lecker und reichhaltig, so dass wir uns am Ende nur eine Cremé Brulée teilten…..Danach ging es dann zurück in die Unterkunft, die vorherige Nacht gab es ja nicht so viel Schlaf….

Sonntag, 16.10. Von Porto aus überraschend nach Nazaré

Ich wurde recht früh wach – die anderen schliefen noch. Ich hatte leichte Kopfschmerzen und machte mich daher erst mal auf einen morgendlichen Spaziergang durch Porto. Dieser führte mich natürlich zu meinem Lieblings-Bäcker und dort holte ich mir einen Kaffee, einen frisch gepressten Orangensaft und eine Nata – ein sehr guter Start in den Sonntag.

Irgendwann kam dann auch eine Nachricht, dass nun die anderen wach sind und so ging ich zurück zum Frühstück. Nach dem Frühstück wollten wir noch mal in das kleine „Keramik-Outlet“ und kombinierten das mit einem Spaziergang bis zum Douro. Im Keramik-Outlet kauften wir dann zwei Schüsseln und dann kam die Nachricht, dass es in unserem gemieteten Haus in Moledo aktuell kein heißes Wasser geben würde und sie am Sonntag auch keinen Handwerker finden würden. Alternativ wurde uns eine andere Unterkunft und eine zusätzliche kostenlose Nacht angeboten. Diese half uns aber nicht wirklich, da wir alle Unterkünfte vorgebucht hatten.

Da das Wetter in Moledo sehr regnerisch angesagt war, fragten wir stattdessen nach einer kostenlosen Stornierungsmöglichkeit und bekamen diese auch. Das Wetter im Süden sah deutlich besser aus und so machten wir uns auf den Weg in Richtung Nazaré. Auf der Fahrt dorthin buchten wir eine Ferienwohnung für 4 Personen in Strandnähe und so kamen wir um 15.30 Uhr recht spontan in Nazaré an. Dort kauften wir dann ein Kilo Garnelen und Brot bei Lidl und hatten einen schönen Snack am Strand. Dabei beobachteten wir die großen Wellen, die laut der Vorhersage bis zu 4,50 Meter hoch werden sollten. Die Lifeguards achteten auch ganz genau darauf, dass die Leute nicht zu dicht ans Wasser gingen – dann ertönte sofort der schrille Pfiff aus der Trillerpfeife….

Jetzt war es schon kurz nach 18 Uhr und ich wollte noch mal hoch zum Fort schauen, wo man die Big-Wave-Surfer beobachten kann, wenn die großen Wellen in Nazaré sind. Auf dem Weg holte ich mir noch zwei Kugeln Eis und dann ging es los. Man hatte einen traumhaften Blick über Nazaré und den Strand und am Fort konnte man recht große Wellen brechen sehen.

In der Dämmerung ging es wieder runter und zur Wohnung. Dort war aber noch niemand – die anderen waren noch in einer Strandbar, zu der lief ich dann auch hin. Abendessen brauchten wir dann nicht mehr – die späten Garnelen waren ausreichend, so dass wir nur noch ein paar Chips hatten;-) Und so ging dann dieser recht spontane Tage in Nazaré zu Ende.

Montag, 17.10. Ein Strandtag rund um Nazaré

An diesem Tag war endlich viel Sonnenschein vorhergesagt. Somit machten wir uns auf den Weg die Strände nördlich von Nazaré zu erkunden. Wir fuhren zur Praia de Vale Furado, die schöne Steilklippen hat. Der Strand war traumhaft schön und wie so häufig in Portugal mal wieder leer.  So spazierten wir eine ganze Weile den Strand entlang – die Brandung war fürs Schwimmen allerdings zu hoch. Danach fuhren wir weiter in Richtung Norden auf der Suche nach einer Strandbar. Leider hatten die meisten Strandbars geschlossen und so wurden wir erst in Sao Pedro de Moel fündig. Dort hatten wir dann einen Drink im Sonnenschein.

Auf dem Rückweg ging es in den Continente und wir kauften 4 Doraden und Gemüse für das Abendessen und mal wieder Garnelen für einen Snack. Diese aßen wir diesmal nicht am Strand – entspannter war das in der Wohnung. Danach machten wir uns dann gemeinsam auf dem Weg hoch zum Fort. Die Wellen waren diesmal kleiner als gestern – daher war es gut, dass ich bereits gestern oben gewesen war. Aber trotzdem hatten wir dort im Sonnenschein mit Bier und Wein und dem Ausblick auf die sich brechenden Wellen und den Strand eine schöne Zeit;-)

Nach dem Abstieg machten wir uns dann die Doraden und das Gemüse – es war alles sehr lecker! Und für 4 Doraden hatten wir gerade mal 9 EUR (!) bezahlt;-)

Dienstag, 18.10. Von Nazaré zur Quinta do Olival mit einem Wine-Tasting auf dem Weg

Die Wetteraussichten waren leider immer noch alles andere als gut. Im Norden von Portugal wurden tagelange Niederschläge mit mehr als 50 Litern pro Quadratmeter pro Tag angesagt. Daher hatten wir überlegt, weiter in den Süden in Richtung Algarve zu fahren – dort wurden die Aussichten aber auch immer schlechter, auch wenn die Niederschlagsmenge dort deutlich geringer ausfallen sollte.

In der Quinta hätten wir aufgrund der Wetteraussichten auch kostenlos stornieren können, am Ende entschieden wir uns aber doch für den Weg in den Norden, da wir ja auch von Porto zurückfliegen müssen. Auf dem Weg machten wir nach gut 1,5 Stunden noch einen Zwischenstopp in Costa Nova. Der Ausblick dort erinnerte mit den Dünen und dem Leuchtturm stark an die Ostsee. Auch hier gab es eine recht gute Brandung – Marie, Jördis und Hagen kamen aber endlich zum Schwimmen im Atlantik. Ich verzichtete diesmal. Danach hatten wir noch einen Kaffee und Natas am Strand und danach ging es weiter in Richtung Norden.

In Guimaraes machten wir den nächsten Stopp. Dort wollten wir eigentlich was essen, leider machten die meisten Restaurants jedoch um 15 Uhr oder 15.30 Uhr zu und es war bereits 15 Uhr. So holten wir und nur ein Eis. Hier fing es dann auch zu regnen an – wir kamen aber noch recht trocken zurück ins Auto.

Nördlich von Guimaraes fanden wir dann noch ein Weingut – ein Besuch dort war doch eine Super-Idee für den regnerischen Nachmittag. Leider hatte das Weingut jedoch geschlossen und so versuchten wir es noch bei der Quinta Picouto. Zumindest war erst einmal das große Tor offen – im Haus fanden wir jedoch niemanden. Dann kam noch ein anderes Auto hinter uns an, wie sich später herausstellen sollte war es der Besitzer des Weingutes.

Dieser rief seine Frau und seine Tochter an und so bekamen wir spontan eine Weinprobe. Am Anfang hieß es noch, dass wir aufgrund einer nicht erfolgten Vorreservierung nur 3 Weine geben würde, das änderte sich jedoch im Verlauf der Weinprobe. Erst einmal kam eine große Holzplatte mit Käse, Salami, Brot und Feigen aus dem eigenen Garten und dann ging es mit den 3 Weißweinen los. Die Probeschlucke waren jeweils eher 0,1 Liter und so wurde der Nachmittag immer lustiger.

Irgendwann wurde dann der Rosé aufgemacht und am Ende auch noch der rote Vinho Verde. Nur den limitierten Alvarinho gab es am Ende nicht in der Probe. Hagen fragte dann nach, ob sie auch was anderes als Wein machen und so gab es den „illegalen Stoff“. Es war eine Art Likör auf Grundlage des Roses, den der Papa aufgrund der hohen Steuer noch nicht angemeldet hatte. Aber auch dieser war sehr lecker.

Am Ende zahlten wir 15 EUR pro Person für die Weinprobe und nahmen noch 4 Flaschen Wein mit, u.a. auch eine Magnum des Alvarinhos. Und Jördis und Marie kauften auch noch spontan den illegalen Stoff für 20 EUR ab. Für den Preis wurde dann der Papa noch mal angerufen….Und so fuhren wir nach gut 2,5 Stunden gehen 18 Uhr fröhlich in Richtung der Quinta do Olival.. In Arcos de Valdevez kauften wir noch ein paar Kleinigkeiten für das Abendessen ein und um kurz nach 19 Uhr kamen wir dann bei der Quinta an.

Wir waren die einzigen Gäste, der Schlüssel steckte und dann machten wir uns noch eine große Pfanne mit Bratkartoffeln. Somit waren dann auch die restlichen Kartoffeln verbraucht und wir hatten nach der Weinprobe das passende Essen;-)

Mittwoch, 19.10. Unverhoffter Sonnenschein am Strand

Das Wetter war ja schrecklich angesagt – in Moledo sollte aber fast den ganzen Tag die Sonne scheinen.

So machten wir und also nach dem Frühstück auf den Weg in Richtung Ponte de Lima. Dort kam die Sonne schon etwas zwischen den Wolken raus und wir schlenderten über die Brücke und durch die Allee mit Pappeln.

Danach ging es dann erst mal zur Praia Afife. Dort schien die Sonne bei sehr kräftigem Wind. Wir machten einen Spaziergang am Strand und fuhren danach nach Moledo. Dort gingen wir erst mal in die Strandbar – die Brötchen von der Quinta waren nicht besonders gehaltvoll und wir hatten alle Hunger. Hagen und ich gönnten uns einen Burger, Marie und Jördis hatten Suppe, Pommes und einen Thunfischsalat – und dazu einen Liter hellen Sangria. Danach gab es dann noch einen Kaffee und gegen 15 Uhr ging es im strahlenden Sonnenschein an den Strand. Wir machten eine Tour von fast 2 Stunden am Fort entlang bis zur Flussmündung und zurück.

Gegen 17 Uhr machten wir uns dann auf den Rückweg zur Quinta. So hatten wir recht unverhofft viele Sonnenstunden genossen. Um 20 Uhr hatten wir einen Tisch im O Lagar reserviert. Als wir reinkamen, waren wir die einzigen Gäste – es kamen aber irgendwann noch zwei weitere Tische. Jördis und ich teilten und Chacena-Steak mit Kohl und Kartoffeln, Hagen und Marie hatten einen riesigen Fleischspieß. Dazu gab es eine Flasche Rotwein. Marie und Jördis wollten dann noch einen Schnaps zum Abschluss – das waren mindestens 8 cl….

Danach ging es dann zurück zur Quinta. Nach dem vielen Wein des gestrigen Abends war es bei Hagen und mir deutlich weniger….

Donnerstag 20.10.  – Wein beim Schuhmacher auf dem Weg nach Pinhao

An diesem Morgen regnete es recht ergiebig und das Beladen des Autos machte gar keinen Spaß…. Irgendwann war auch das erledigt und dann ging es über die Autobahn in Richtung Pinhao. Ich hatte per Mail noch bei einem kleinen Weingut, dem Sapateiro,  für ein Wine-Tasting angefragt und Tiago antwortete auch sehr schnell, dass wir draußen ein Tasting machen könnten, auch wenn es recht windig sei….

Er versuchte dann auch draußen auf dem Balkon alles aufzubauen – das klappte bei dem Wind jedoch gar nicht und so hatten wir das Tasting dann im Living-Room. Wir probierten zuerst einen Weißwein, der vor allem deutschen Kunden schmeckt – unser Fall war es mit dem recht hohen Säureanteil nicht wirklich. Der zweite Weißwein – eine Cuvee aus Alvarinho und Azeiro – war schon deutlich mehr nach unserem Geschmack. Danach gab es dann einen Weißwein, dem die Blüte der Kastanie zugefügt wurde. Sehr spannend und mit guter Nachfrage in den europäischen Metropolen. Den Abschluss der Weißweine bildete dann ein weißer Reserva aus dem Barrique – der war auch noch mal sehr lecker.

Danach wechselten wir dann zum Rotwein. Zuerst hatten wir den Rotwein aus dem Stahltank – der war sehr kräftig und sehr trocken. Danach hatten wir dann die Variante aus dem Barrique, die deutlich besser war. Insgesamt verbrachten wir gute 2 Stunden bei Tiago und zahlten am Ende 20 EUR pro Person.

Danach ging es weiter zum Wine & Soul. Leider mussten wir dabei einen Umweg in Kauf nehmen – die Route von Google hörte irgendwann bei einer großen Baustelle einfach auf. Als wir ankamen wollten wir ein Glas nehmen, das wäre aber nur draußen gegangen, da drinnen für eine Weinprobe mit 37 Personen eingedeckt war. Das Wetter war jetzt nicht so schön, so dass wir dann auf das Weinglas verzichteten – zumal waren die meisten Weine bereits ausgetrunken….

Somit fuhren wir dann direkt weiter zur Casa Cimeira. Nach der Ankunft bekamen wir den obligatorischen Portwein und dann drehten wir noch mal eine Runde über die Weinberge. Es war dann doch schön, sich noch mal ein bißchen zu bewegen.

Um 19.30 Uhr waren wir dann beim Aperitif und hatten diesmal den 10-jährigen weißen Port. Um 20 Uhr wechselten wir dann zum Dinner. Nach der Vorspeise mit Kabeljau gab es gegrilltes Schwein mit Gemüse und Ofenkartoffeln. Dazu dann eine halbe Flasche Rotwein pro Person. Zum Nachtisch gab es Créme Brulée – Hagen bekam einen großen Teller und dann noch einen Nachschlag. Und danach gab es dann wieder Portwein – am Ende sogar den 40-jährigen. Da drei Mädels aus Israel da waren, machte er dann noch einen israelischen Rotwein auf, den ein Gast mitgebracht hatte. Sehr lecker – bei 40 EUR die Flasche sollte das aber auch so sein;-).

Gegen Mitternacht ging es dann nach zu viel Alkohol ins Bett.

Freitag, 21.10.2022 – Eine Zugfahrt von Pinhao nach Pocinhos

Der Tag sah deutlich besser aus, als es die Vorhersage vermuten ließ. So machten wir uns gegen 11 Uhr auf den Weg nach Pinhao um von dort die Bahn nach Pocinhos zu nehmen und die Ausblicke auf den Douro und die Weinberge zu genießen. Bis Tua kannten Marie und ich die Strecke von der Kanutour – danach ging es aber noch eine Weile weiter.

Da der Zug Verspätung hatte ging es in Pocinhos nach dem Umdrehen der Lok gleich wieder zurück.

Danach hatten wir erst mal einen Kaffee und fuhren dann zu einem Weingut oberhalb von Pinhao. Der Ausblick war toll, die gemischte Platte in Ordnung, die Weine für uns aber viel zu sauer und nicht wirklich lecker.

Danach fuhren wir noch zu einem großen Weingut – das war sehr beeindruckend, hatte aber leider nicht offen.

Da aller guten Dinge 3 sind, fuhren wir danach noch zur Quinta do Popa. Der Ausblick war wieder traumhaft – die Weine konnte da leider wieder nicht mithalten. Somit fuhren wir nach 2 kleinen „Testflights“ für uns alle wieder zurück zur Casa Cimeira.

Dort kühlten wir dann die restlichen Weine vom ersten Weingut ein und bekamen zur Überbrückung einen Secco von Miguel. Der war sehr lecker. Danach hatten wir dann noch die Weißweine und so wurde die Stimmung bis zum Abendessen schon sehr lustig. Um 19.30h gab es dann wieder den Aperitif – Hagen und ich hatten erst mal einen weißen Port mit Tonic. Um 20 Uhr ging es wieder an den Tisch.

Die Vorspeise war geräuchert und sehr deftig – da verzichtete Marie dann eher. Danach gab es dann für jeden eine Meerbrasse mit Gemüse und Reis. Das war wirklich sehr lecker und dazu gab es dann auch noch mal den Secco. Nach dem Nachtisch ging es wieder in die Bar. Diesmal dauerte es nicht so lange – vielleicht lag das auch daran, dass Miguel Benfica gegen den FC Porto schaute und seine Frau nicht ganz so hektisch nachschüttete wie er….

Aber mit dem Wein vor dem Essen war es auch diesmal wieder eher zu viel, als zu wenig Wein. 2 Nächte bei Miguel sind für die Erholung definitiv nicht förderlich….

Samstag, 22.10.22 – Die Wanderung über die Arouca 516 und Fleisch satt

Am nächsten Tag wachten wir daher recht müde auf. Das Frühstück war in Ordnung – reißt aber auch nicht wirklich vom Hocker. Nach dem Frühstück machten wir uns dann auf den Weg nach Cinfaes.

Leider hatte der Wetterbericht diesmal tatsächlich recht mit seiner Vorhersage gehabt – es schüttete den ganzen Weg lang. Und auf einen Besuch eines Weingutes hatte überraschenderweise diesmal niemand Lust. So kamen wir gegen 12 Uhr in der A Padaria an. Und schon beim Ankommen kommt man bei der entspannten und ruhigen Art von Maria selbst zur Ruhe.

Wir bekamen erst mal einen Kaffee und buchten dann mit ihr gemeinsam Tickets für die Arouca-Brücke für 15 Uhr. Der Regen hatte etwas nachgelassen und vom Parkplatz kamen wir über den Boardwalk trocken bis zur Brücke. Seit dem Mai ist die Brücke nur noch die drittlängste Hängebrücke der Welt – mit einer Höhe von 180 m aber immer noch die höchste. Die Gruppe war recht überschaubar und wir liefen bei schönen Windböen auf die andere Seite. Auf dem Rückweg setzte dann der Regen ein – den starken Schauer bekamen wir zum Glück nicht ab und standen relativ regengeschützt am Brückenpfeiler.

Danach entschieden wir uns dann gegen den Boardwalk und für einen Kaffee und wenn man sich das weitere Wettergeschehen anschaute, war das die richtige Entscheidung gewesen. Wir hatten 4 Galao, 4 Natas, 2 Eclairs und ein Sandwich und zahlten am Ende 9,60 (!!) EUR für alles. Unglaublich!

Danach fuhren wir dann auf kleinen Straßen zurück zur Unterkunft. Marie und Jördis tranken den letzten Rest Portwein, Hagen schmiss sich auf das Bett und ich machte ein kleines Nickerchen – sehr schön;-).

Um 19 Uhr gingen wir dann in „dem“ Restaurant in Cinfaes essen und es gab mal wieder Fleisch satt. Hagen nahm den Burger, Marie hatte 3 kleine Steaks und Jördis und ich gönnten uns ein Tomahawk. Marie und Jördis hatten dazu einen Rotwein, ich probierte etwas und Hagen wählte diesmal das gesunde Wasser….

Nach dem Essen ging es zurück und dann relativ früh ins Bett…

Sonntag, 23.10.22 – Eine Wanderung im Regen und die Rückreise nach Berlin

Bis auf Marie wachten wir alle recht erholt auf. Marie hatte ihre Ohropax nicht gefunden – so fing die Nacht schon ganz schlecht an und dann fand sie die Matratze auch noch etwas zu hart;-). Das Frühstück war wie im letzten Jahr unglaublich gut. Ei nach Wahl, guter Kaffee, leckeres Brot, Brötchen und Croissants, Joghurt und Obst und selbstgemachte Marmeladen und Lemon Curd. Da blieb kein Wunsch offen.

Nach dem Frühstück packten wir unsere Sachen und machten uns auf zu einer Wanderung. Nach dem Regenradar sah es eigentlich ganz gut aus – am Ende wanderten wir dauerhaft im leichten Nieselregen, der am Ende zu einem wirklich kräftigen Schauer wurde.

Damit hatten wir das Gefühl, die Wanderung könnte auch in Schottland sein. Trotzdem tat die Bewegung gut. Danach machten wir uns dann auf den Weg in Richtung Flughafen. Auf dem Weg gingen wir noch einen Kaffee trinken und kauften etwas Proviant für den Flughafen und den Rückflug.

Der Flug hatte leider Verspätung, das Auto mussten wir aber um 15.30 Uhr bei Sixt abgeben. Das klappte auch – mittlerweile sollte der Flug um 18.30 Uhr statt um 17 Uhr gehen. Das nervte etwas. Um 18.30 Uhr hoben wir dann aber auch wirklich ab und das Gepäck bekamen wir in Berlin sehr schnell. So erreichten wir im Sprint noch den Airport-Express. Zurück waren wir dann gegen 23 Uhr.

Was bleibt?

Portugal ist immer eine Reise wert. Wir haben altbekannte Stellen besucht, die aber immer wieder ihren Reiz haben. Und wir haben tolle neue Weingüter entdeckt. Wir hatten leckeres Essen und zu viel Wein und etwas zu wenig Bewegung;-).

 

 

 

 


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